![]() ![]() So the first thing to do is firing only one shot after adjusting the reticle, then twist back and to the previous position again, so you are always firing the "first shot" after adjusting. Those that believe that "you should test a scope by shooting because you will use it for shooting" should consider this: It is the first shot after twisting the knobs that counts, so adjusting the scope and then shooting a group may result in one "flyer" that was actually the first shot of the group after which the reticle has settled. Sure you can test a scope by shooting it, but getting the same information with the same level of confidence you will get by spending 10 minutes turning knobs on a test target will cost you hundreds of rounds and hours of shooting. collecting not very accurate single data points by dialing and shooting groups. When looking through the scope while dialing, you can see the movement of the reticle continuously in real time, vs. Make sure to level the scope by putting a spirit level onto the elevation turret (in order to check for reticle cant). I would certainly not put a scope into a vise, but rather mount a piece of picatinny rail to a steady table or whatever else that is solid enough and then put the scope on the rail. Of course doing a simple box test is far better than doing nothing, but the only thing you can really check this way with any level of confidence is verifying the correct click value, and even doing that doesn't require shooting a box. Regardless, it is good to have more than one method so that I have a backup plan.Īzimutha: I will probably do it at 100 yards since I am comfortable with my rifle/loads at that range. I figure I can always come back and do the bench vise cold test. Will be doing one where the elevation range will be around 40 MOA. As it is, I loaded some rounds for a test overnight before I got David S’s response and so since I have the rounds, it would not hurt to give it a go. The flip side is that I do buy into the idea that testing the scope using live rounds is the true test of a scope i.e. The scope is a NSX 8-32x56 and so at full power, even a very slight slippage will make a huge difference. In general, I like the concept of bolting down the scope and looking through it to see where it goes when I dial, but I am still not totally convinced that I can hold the scope down firm enough so that there is no movement at all. LoneWolfUSMC: I have bench vise but did not think of using it, but yes it would probably work if I end up using this method. Thanks guys for more great input and ideas! Although it is not a full 10 mil target I feel it still is a good indication of the scope's accuracy, especially if you dial up 4 mils and 1 mil left (to hit a far corner) then dial down 4 and 2 right to hit the right lower corner, then do the other two corners. Every shot's POA is the center bottom diamond. I really like shooting a dot drill with a 3x5 grid of 1/2" diamonds spaced 1 mil apart. Just be sure that the target is incremented in the number of inches/CMs that would be subtended 50 yards, e.g. If it works better for you, Doc's suggestion of going to 50 yards will still test the scope's ability to track. I'd rather test by shooting, even if there is a degree of error caused by shooter ability or rifle/ammo capability. But otherwise, I agree with LoneWolf's reasoning. I've taken an old wooden yardstick (verified with a measuring tape first) and stapled it to the backstop to make sure I was setting up at 100 yards (just centered the reticle with the middle of the yardstick 18" and back it up a little until the whole yardstick fit exactly inside 10 mils). The biggest problem I have is finding a way to fix the scope solid enough so that one, I can still maneuver it to the gauge down range, and two, when I turn the knobs it does not move the whole scope. I understand the concept and it is a good one. Originally Posted By: David S.The proper way to check the tracking is bolting the scope to a solid table with some kind of fixture and turning the knobs while watching the reticle move on a test target. Looks like I need to extend at least my vertical component of my box to at least 40 MOA – thanks. 07 x 20 you need to be close enough to not mistake this for group size and shooter error. You have to figure how much error you might see. Originally Posted By: LowlightOn video I have shot box tests similar to your description mostly I travel about 10 mils as opposed to 20 MOA which is the bare minimum to test. I understand you are looking at a 4ft ruler, just not sure what FFS is? Also would this be a scope locked on to a bench and just looking at visual movements? Originally Posted By: LowlightI dial from top to bottom of 4ft ruler and use FFS to calculate the exact amount of travel. Thanks a lot for helping guys! A few questions:
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |